Several years ago, having found myself living a hundred-or-so miles from the Bonneville Salt Flats, I decided it was time to go see what Speed Week was all about. I had heard the stories from friends, seen their sunburned faces (oddly red on the underside of their chins and noses) and listened to tales of 50 year old land speed cars still setting records and new cars blowing old records away. Motorhead nirvana was promised and as a die-hard fan of all things loud, mechanical and fast, Speed Week was on my must-do list.
I decided to combine passions and ride a motorcycle to the event. Bad idea, for two reasons. First, I-80 west to Wendover Utah (roughly where you bail off the highway and get on the salt) has to be one of America’s most boring motorcycle rides. Mostly flat, straight and populated by 18 wheelers rolling 5-under the speed limit, this is a bike trip to endure, not enjoy. Second, when you ride a bike to the salt flats it doesn’t take long to realize that the sun reflecting off the salt is REALLY BRIGHT and the shade provided by a motorcycle is completely inadequate. I had brought long pants, a hat and sunglasses but not much else.
One of the first things I noticed at this particular racing event was the absence of big corporate sponsors and their giant race rigs, fancy pits and hospitality suites. Now there’s nothing wrong with all that stuff; I think it adds to the experience of many events, but Bonneville was like walking back in time. The pits were mostly modest affairs with guys – old guys – working out of the back of their pickup trucks. The race cars were positioned under simple Easy-Up shades, with temporary carpets of blue plastic tarp nailed down to the salt. Tool boxes were Craftsman and loaded with essential but well worn tools. Fathers and sons, mothers and daughters, buddies and friends were everywhere.
The race cars were a collection of some of the most eclectic hardware ever to roll on four wheels, or three, or two for that matter. Many of the machines were sleek projectiles covered in candy colored paint powered by high-tech, computer controlled engines. Just as many, however, were simple, hand fabricated cars clearly built out of their owners garage and limited bank account. Start with the belly tank of a World War II airplane, find a Ford rear end, truck transmission and a flat head V8 and we’re off to set speed records. Or dig out that Oldsmobile that’s been sitting in the weeds behind grandpas place for thirty years, buy a $200 engine off Craigslist and go racing. There’s a class for everything – even vehicles with no class.
I thought that this must’ve been what it was like in California in the 40′s and 50′s when hot rodding and drag racing were just getting started. Before big media and bigger advertising budgets, before PR campaigns, and interviews with highly polished race drivers in brightly colored driving suits who all seemed to say the same boring things in their post-race interviews week after week. This place was, well…refreshingly authentic.
That’s not to say there wasn’t some serious money out on the salt – there was. Some of the streamliners are million dollar affairs with college engineering departments and quiet funding from not-so-obvious places supporting the effort, but even at the upper levels of land speed racing the people are the same – they genuinely love what they’re doing and love to talk about it, even with squinty-eyed motorcyclists. Not ten minutes after stepping into the pit area I was conversing with a shirtless, 60 year-oldish guy wearing an enormous straw hat about what he was doing to make his motorcycle sidecar rig run 203 miles per hour. He wasn’t happy about his first attempts but was armed with (I’m not kidding here) a roll of duct tape that he intended to apply to all of the seams of the bodywork to improve the aerodynamics. That did it for me. Sidehack, duct tape, 200+mph…I was hooked.
Further exploration revealed a gorgeous 70′s-something Dodge Daytona with a 500+ cubic inch motor wedged under the hood, a 50′s-something Lincoln originally built years ago to race the Carrera Panamerica road rally in Mexico, a ’71 Honda Z600 mini car with a two cylinder engine that held records in two classes, and a streamliner powered by a giant Cummins diesel engine. All the while, strange machines would idle through the pits – rat rods by the dozen, stunning T-bucket roadsters that looked like rolling tropical cocktails with beach umbrellas stuck between the seats for shade, a giant Radio Flyer wagon done monster truck style, a guy cruising the pits on a motorized barstool. And bicycles – vintage bikes, custom frames, choppers and trikes – pedal power was clearly a popular way to cover the lengthy pit area.
The sound of the salt flats during Speed Week is incredible. There’s a certain auditory sensation that can’t be found at any other racing venue, one created by sound waves booming off the surface of the lake as a V8 roars by Mile 5 of the long course at full scream, the sound following the car by several hundred feet. Your mind struggles to comprehend what the eyes and ears can’t reconcile, that the car you’re seeing is making the sound you’re hearing and it’s going…so…damned… fast.
After the chute pops out and slows the car down enough so the brakes will work again, the crew – gray hair and beards, dressed in what pass as uniforms of t-shirts from land speed events a decade or more ago – drags the car back to the impound area. You’re a little surprised to see rust bubbling up on the bottom of the doors – just like Mom’s grocery getter in Wisconsin. The hood is removed to reveal a big-inch Buick engine oozing billet aluminum, massive exhaust headers snaking their way under the car, all of it the most unlikely combination meticulously assembled from what was simply available at the time and what was paid dearly for.
At Bonneville, functional individualism rules the day. That, and Old Guys.
It’s somewhat charming to watch these men work on these machines, men that look like your grandfather did as he showed you how to properly operate a hacksaw when you were ten years old, guys that have the wisdom that only comes from years of trial, error, ruined parts and botched experiments. These old guys don’t waste money on anything that doesn’t make it faster, and with that simple ethic they inevitably make it cooler even though they weren’t even trying.
These are people that are playing with the real nuts and bolts reality of their crazy imaginations where the vehicle is never really finished. These cars show up on the salt in a perpetual state of being built, a condition only interrupted by flat-out runs across the dry lake surface, returning to their builders for adjustments, tweaks, changes and sometimes full-on invasive surgery before the next run.
At the starting line there’s no question that everyone knows exactly what’s at stake. There’s a seriousness that falls over the driver and crew before each pass. The car is pushed silently up to the orange cone that marks the beginning of the course, fire suits over Nomex underwear, helmet, neck brace, fire resistant gloves are all donned before the driver squeezes themself into the impossibly-small cockpit, harnesses cinched down tight. When it’s time to go, the official gives the signal to start the engine and the car comes to life.
Since these engines are designed for maximum power at high RPM, they can barely idle on the start line, popping, crackling and only staying lit by the occasional blip of the throttle as the engine warms up. After the starting official receives word that the course is completely clear he waves the car and its push truck out onto the race course. The truck pushes the car to 40, 50, 60 miles per hour before the driver eases the clutch out onto first gear and feeds it some gas. The car sounds like the driver has mistakenly selected fourth gear and almost stalls before you remember that this thing is built for top end speed. In fourth gear the car will be traveling over 200 miles per hour but it literally can’t get itself moving from a standstill.
The car disappears into a shimmering horizon where land and sky are one – no mans land, fast mans land. A radio crackles over the PA system…”Mile 2, one hundred sixty three miles per hour”. A moment later: “Mile 3, one-eighty-one…”, then half a breath, “Mile 4, two-thirty-two…chutes out”!
Meanwhile, another car has rolled up to the line to repeat the ritual and to try and find another mile per hour.
I left the salt that evening slightly sunburned and a little dazed at the sensory overload, and definitely not looking forward to the two hour ride home. Would I return? Yes, with four wheels and a better pair of sunglasses.
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